The Sounds of Silence

There is something a little nerve wracking as well as exhilarating about heading off into the moonlight each morning and not knowing what will lie ahead of us. Yesterday we knew that we would be climbing into the mountains above Rabanal del Camino and so it was an eerie feeling to set off into the hills with some moonlight but with a cloud cover that kept it quite dark. It is silent in the hills in the early morning and we walk in a single file with our lamps lighting the rough stone path so that we do not fall, There is not a lot of time for thinking as it is important to concentrate on the foot path, yet the sounds and the silence capture your attention. After some time I notice we have climbed quite high up into the hills and as I look back I can see the lights of pilgrims coming across the valley below.
We arrive at an abandoned village called Foncebadon near day break and while there are currently 5 residents living here, there are already 3 alberques, so we meet up with friends that we see from time to time along the way.
We are now heading for the great iron cross that is a legend on the Camino. People bring stones from their home countries and leave them here and we have been looking forward to arriving at this cross for a few days now. At last we are there and have climbed some 300 meters since we left earlier in the morning. It is a bit disappointing as there are not a lot of people but still a few and they are taking pictures of each other in heroic poses at the top of the pile of stones.
We take turns climbing up to the base of the cross and when it is my turn, I am surprised at the emotion I feel. I have been carrying stones and things for some friends and also have with me, 2 heart shaped rose quartz stones that I brought from South Africa, Not sure that I wanted to leave them along the way as they have been sitting beide my bed on the table for many months and so are treasures to me, but I had decided the day before to say a prayer for Chris and then leave them in a little crevace there for him. At the base of the cross when I get there, I am deeply touched by the mementos and simple offerings that people have left. All of a sudden the place seems deeply sacred with the energy of so much effort from around the world to leave something special here. As I place the 2 hearts at the base of the cross, I am once again sobbing in such deep sorrow about Chris and have to descend to the other side of the cross to have a good cry on my own. It continues to surprise me how this sadness creeps up and knocks me sideways at unexpected times. It passes as it always does and later in the morning I light a candle in an ancient church for Chris, counting my blessings for the good life I had with him and the life that lies before me.
We are walking now into the beauty of the mountains and we are actually quite blown away with the magnificence of it all, Actually, I have to stop and just sit with the stillness at times. I hear again the bells that are attached to the cows in the mountain meadows and it is a wonderful clear sound to hear across the hills as they move in and out of their feeding places. We walk up and down over rough stone paths but in the most beautiful places yet on this entire journey.
At one point we are comig down and I hear what sounds like a medley of wind chimes. As I turn the corner, there stands a shepherd and it is his flock of sheep, many of whom are wearing bells that I hear, a symphony of music that is so natural and unheard before that it is hard to take it all in in such a beautiful setting.
I am tired from the climb and moved by the many lovely things that I have seen along the way. We walk through many wonderful ancient villages again on our way down which takes quite some time as we are walking 25 kms today. There is so much to stop and look at in each place that it is impossible to see it all so I make mental notes to myself about what I would come back to see some time in the future.
I am getting the feeling that we are nearing the end of the journey. We are counting down the kms now and are less than 200 at this point. I cannot believe the way this has transpired for me and I am so thankful for all of the wonderful people that I have met, especially my 3 Camino sisters, as well the people that I continue to meet each day. Today we walked once again through vineyards and we expect to see people harvesting the grapes soon. We sampled a few grapes on the way this time and they are delicious. We walked along a red dirt road that was soft from the morning rain and it was like walking on a cloud for our tired feet.
When you walk - you see, hear and smell things that you do not notice any other way and it is like this is a first time experience of life in a way. so much to notice, even the color of a beutiful rose in the morning light after the rain, the colors of the rainbow and the shape of the clouds as the sun breaks through. Yesterday morning as the sub began to rise shortly afte we reached the abandoned village, it seemed like God was painting a beautiful picture just for us, but only if you took the time to turn around and notice.
My mother has found the words of the 23rd Psalm which is the hymn Crimond and so the hill will resound with the correct words to this beautiful song in the coming days. I just wish I could really sing well!
So much surrounds us so much of the time and so much of it unnoticed and un appreciated.
Seeing life in a new way is such a gift at this stage of the game.
More later...............Maggee