The Hills are Alive

We walk in the early morning darkness once more only this time are thankful that the rain of yesterday has stopped and while the sky is clouded over, it is dry and peaceful and damp in the woods that we walk into. Last night two people arrived quite late at the alberque and there was no place for them. I think they were accomodated somewhere, but it was not nice to see young people with no where to go so late at night and in the rain. this morning we passed a bus shelter on the side of the road and could see the outline of someone sleeping on the bench there. It pays to be early at the alberque I think.
We are walking up and down the hills in the dark, with our lights flashing to find the yellow arrows that guide us all along these many kms. We are careful with the footsteps as the rain has left puddles, but still the walk is dark, quiet and beautiful. It takes 2 hours to come to the first ancient town and our well earned cafe con leche. this is Villafranca which is a wonderful place and so historical. We have a lovely cafe and some toast with jam and sit for awhile before heading off.
It is hard to find the recommended route out of town as we want to trek high up into the hills this morning as the alternate way to the next town. We are directed by the locals who are very helpful and quite friendly and find ourselve on a steep incline that is more like a never ending stair case to heaven or so it seems. the climb lasts a long time and as we get higher we realize that we are alone and into the hills and green surroundings. We also see that we are soon at eye level with the clouds above the nearby hills. Soon the sun comes out and we are blessed with warmth and a wonderful view across the rolling mountains and the towns below. We walk for about 3 hours up and down the hills seeing no one and hearing only the sounds of nature as we walk. We are solitary and do not talk to each other and eventually separate so that we are not even in sight of each other. This is quite an experience to be walking in solitude in wsuch beauty and only one,s thoughts for company and yet feeling totally safe and in the right place.
My feet seem better today. I thought last night as I lay in bed that I am giving the impression of an ibuprofen high pilgrim wandering the hills of Spain and singing psalms long forgotten by the younger generation. Not so actually and it is something that I also see in the people around me - that is the singing and the chanting of prayers especially in the early morning. It is a very sacred experience to walk like this.
We have a wonderful day today, walking 26 km to arrive at the recommended alberque which is pretty close to the start of tomorrow.s climb. We wanted to be here as we are not sure what it will be like to get a bed for tomorrow and how far we will have to walk. In the morning we face the last of the mountain climbs and while it is about 1200 meters I believe, it is steep and will take about 3 hours to complete. At the top we will walk on and see how far we feel like travelling and stop when it seems right. this is the climb to OCebreiro which is well written about and so we are looking forward to the views and the experience.
We are deep in the country now and as we sit on the stoop to drink our wine a guy on a horse passes by which breaks the background music of bells ringing on the animals. It is quite wonderful to be so removed from the rest of the world I can tell you.
I am feeling as though this has been the never ending journey. Although I know it will end at some point, the effect and the experience of what I have had will have a profound effect on my life.
We continue to meet new people each day and to connect with people that are travelling along with us but a day ahead or behind and then catch up.
We are staying in a small place this evening where two men who run the place are cooking dinner for us. We will eat at a common table as is the norm and drink a lot of wine which is also the norm.
I just hope the clothes on the line dry before I have to pack them away again. Such are the worries of a pilgrim.
From deep in the heart of Spain.........Maggee