Oh What a Beautiful Morning!

We sleep well after a wonderful dinner prepared by Carlos our host hospitalero and the person in charge of everying at the alberque in Ruitalen. It is a very authentic place which soon fills with pilgrims preparing for the next days climb to O Cebreiro which is the most documented part of the Camino. We sleep in a wonderul 5 bed room again with the bunk beds crowded closely together, but since we are all friends it is a wonderful feeling of family and togetherness. Through the night when I am awake I can hear the sounds of the bells in the far fields that are attached to the cows and it is such an other worldly exèrienc that I can harldy make sense of it from a deep sleep.
We are awakened at promtly 0630 am. We have been told not to move until then as it is against the rules, which is fine with us. We soon hear the pretty loud sounds of an operatic version of Ave Maria and Alvina comments that we are surely in Paradise. Opera accompanies us through the morning rituals of prepaing to leave and prior to that we share breakfast at a common table. We are uplifted to say the least.
Last evening this common meal was a wonderful experience as all of the pilgrims shared the meal together which was garlic soup, a very interesting salad and then spagetti carbonara accompanied by copious amounts of vino tinto which we are getting accustomed to. Following this wonderful meal, we were entertained by the host and cook and an older pilgrim who sang to us in Spanish and it was a very fun and lively evening.
Now this morning we are all a little nervous. Much has been written about the day ahead and the climb from where we are up to O Cebreiro. It is a steep path which goes about 700 meters and projected to be straight up over about 8 kms. We leave by 0730 which is late for us and wander through the cold clear morning to little villages and the sleeping homes that lay before us. It is a surreal experience once again as we walk and prepare to ascend this hill, looking for the turn off into the woods. Soon it is there and we walk along a wooded path down into the valley and then gradually up and onto a steep stone pathway. It is pretty steep and takes some adjustment until I find my breath and rythym and even then it take something to carry on as if this is normal walking for me. We climb like this for about an hour and eventualy, the tough walks that have been the history of the past few weeks, begin to pay off and the climb becomes very enjoyable. Soon we are leaving the forest and the stone path and to my surprise there are villages along the way.
We are walking into the high mountain meadows now. Since the gods of weather have smiled on us today, it is a most magnificent morning and with the brilliant blue sky and the morning sun. It is hard not to stop at every turn to just gaze off into the surrounding hills and views across the valleys. We are walking and stopping and so enjoying the whole experience - not at all what I thought it would be for sure and because I am feeling so strong it is a joy to be just walking like this. The silence and the smells and the views are undescribable and we just continue to walk in silence knowing that we will at some point reach the top, but that we are fully capable of achieving this day which has been written about so many times as the most difficult day of the Camino. I think it very often rains along this way, so we are blessed with the fine weather and the clear views.
We eventually come out at the town of Cebreiro just in front of the church and the cross at the top of the path. I am so surprised and as well, dissappointed that the climb is over that I actually suggest that we go down and do it again - can you believe it!
I feel exhilarated in a way I have not felt before, for the achievement, for the wellness I feel and for the simple joy of being in such a beautiful place. We spend some time in the little pilgrim church, lighting candles and wandering around to enjoy the peace and then into the bar for cafe con leche and a treat of pastry.
The rest of the day passes with the same pleasure as we walk along roads and pathways that cause you to stop and hold your breath at every turn as the views and the feeling of silence and reverence is so special in this place.
We arrive at an alberque in a little place that seems to be in the middle of the barn yard. While it is a wonderful place to stay, we are tired and as is our custom now, drink wine in the afternoon after the chores are done and wait for dinner.
There is another wonderful surprise waiting for us at dinner. We have been at common tables in the past few weeks, with maybe 20 people, but this one holds at least 45 and of every language. the meal is simple. but so tasty and nutritious. Actually through the dinner and after wards, people just begin to sing and soon we have a concert. the French fellows get up and sing wonderful songs, an Italian sings like a super star and an Irish fellow sings so beautifully it makes you want to fall in love again.
too soon it is over and we are once again heading for bed - into the top bunk for me and preparing for an early departure once again.
We are now in Sarria which is only 113 kms from Santiago and it is so hard to believe that we are less than 5 days away from completing this awesome journey. We have walked a total of 675 kms to date!! My feet will carry me there I know that now, I just need to take care to stop and rest some. My right ankle which is simply tired from the constant exercise it gets, is slow to get going in the morning and so I hobble along for the first few kms and then I am find. The ibuprofen continues to provide relief and the wine at the end of the day of course is also a boost to the system.
This morning as we departed our small village, actually hardly that really, just a cluster of houses, it was very dark as it was only 0620. This is a good time as there are few others on the path and it is a special time for meditation and reflection. I have to tell you that as I write this I am still affected by the experience of this morning.
I was walking with Clare who is a new companion and as we went along, the others had gone ahead. We stopped for a few minutes and turned off our head lamps and just stood, looking up and listening. It was completely dark and the sky was a blanket of stars and the silence was like nothing I have heard before - not even a bird sound or a breath of wind, only the dark shadows of the trees and the outline of the distant hills. As we stood there in this complete cathedral of silence and powerful energy, this came to my mind
I am in the presence of God and it is around me all the time and if I only stop and listen, it is right there for me to feel, appreciate and be energized by.
Now I am not turning into some ritualistic mystic or a religious fanatic, only becoming deelpy aware of all that I do not take time to notice that is right there in front of me, if only I take the moment to see, taste and hear it.
Later, Clare gave me this quote that she had from a friend and here it is.
--------Be still and know that I am God.-----------
a new and profound experience that will always be a part of my life, but more so because of this Camino and my days of walking and reflecting along the way.
Well, I do not know what lies ahead in my life for me as a result of all that I have experienced along my way of the camino de santiago. I do know that is changing me deeply and I cannot even imagine what it will be like to board an airplane in one weeks time to begin my journey home again.
Until then, we have 5 days of walking through the beauty of what is know as Galacia and the weather promises to be sunny. It is raining everywhere else in Spain at the moment, so we are truly blessed.
My wish to you who read and walk with me is peace and a light and loving heart.
Maggee