Zarautz to Deba (26kms ) August 30, 2010

Well now it is getting more serious. This is our third day of walking more than 20 kms and my legs are sure feeling the effort. I am so thankful that I can walk up these hills which really require some courage and stamina. Compared to this walk, the Camino Frances was like a stroll in the park!!. The CF required stamina and endurance to keep going each day. It was also a lot more crowded with pilgrims everywhere and lots of places to stay. The Camino El Norte requires a lot of physical strength and is much less populated, probably because of that. We see pilgrims along the way, but maybe a total of 10 during the day. The alberques have been less than half full up until Deba. Most of the people are men and most walk in a group. There have been only 2 or 3 women that we have met walking alone and the rest in groups of 3 or 4 men and women together. The guide I am using is so confusing, it is pretty useless. It has alternate routes and so much detail, that if you are off track,you could never get back on from these directions. Alvina has a French book that we refer to, but we are following the yellow arrows which have been very reliable so far.
The walk from Zarautz started along the sea wall all the way to Getaria. We watched the sun come up behind us and it was like the heavens were opening up a shower of gold through the clouds. The colors reflected on the sea and into the distant skies were marvelous. Shortly, we were heading up and up into the hills again. This day was incredible for the climbing. At one point I said to Alvina that if we should lose our way, the option is always going to be up and not down.
Well, smart as we are, we decided to take a diversion off the yellow arrows to save some climbing and some distance. Big mistake! We were pretty soon at a junction with no signs and realized that we had missed a turn somewhere. So of course, to go back meant a climb up the highest hill. We were soon on the right track, but my God what a lot of big hills. At one point, I don´t think even the sheep go that far up. It was so steep, we just had to laugh and try to breath our way to the top - nothing wrong with this old heart I concluded!
Then on a narrow path on the other side, Kirsten slipped and badly strained her ankle. Luckily, she was able to keep on walking until we came to a small parking lot, again at the top of a hill. This never happens to us, but along came not one, but two women who both spoke English and one then offered to drive us to the next town to save the last 1 km of walking. We actually were offered a lift 2 more times by strangers who could see we were in trouble. You are never alone on this Camino really and just when you think you are in big trouble, the Camino angels step in and you are rescued from danger.
We found our way to the alberque in Deba, again with help from another pilgrim who happened along and knew just where to go. This alberque required us to take 2 elevators up the side of the mountain. We calculated that it covered 15 stories which the people of the town would otherwise have to climb each day to go back and forth to their houses. We eventually got our beds and then a number of people, including a doctor who was a pilgrim helped to solve the problem of Kirsten´s ankle. It is strained and not broken and was terrible last night. But this morning, she is so much better and able to walk. So we are resting today which is a good thing for all of us and will stay in a wonderful pensionne here in Deba. Kirsten will take the bus tomorrow and Alvina and I will walk the 22kms to Markina. this is a long stretch with nothing along the way, so better for her not to risk getting into trouble there.
I have to say that the people you meet along the way are remarkable and it is what gives me hope for the core values and potential goodness that exist in each of us no matter where we are.
We had a picnic supper in the albergue in the evening. When you do this, there are inevitably others who come along to join in. Sometimes there is no common language and you just manage in a combination of French or Spannish and a lot of sign language. It is pretty amazing how much relatedness is generated through this. There were two wonderful young men we met last night, one has walked the Camino France 5 times and is walking the El Norte for the second time (averaging 35 kms each day). Another loves walking so much that he takes young people in France who are in trouble with the law on long walks like this, as part of their rehab to a better life. These young people travel with very little money and manage to complete their camino quite well with what small resources they have and the kindness of strangers.
The alberques along this route have been basic, but clean and adequate. Most of them open only at 4 pm which makes it silly to be up and leaving at 630 am as we have been doing. As well, all of the beds that I have seen have a sheet on them and sometimes a pillow case - which makes me feel somewhat relieved that they are taking care to reduce the incidence of bed bugs which I am watching for very carefully after my Camino Frances experience.
So today here we are being tourists, staying in a lovely pensionne and having a day of rest. This is probably a good idea as the walks each day have been quite strenuous and my legs sometimes ache at night with the effect of the climbing. All I can think about as I walk now, is how strong I will be at the end.
I am also aware that this is a different mental and spiritual journey for me. Last time, I was scared of the challenge and of being on my own and searching for relief from the intense grief that I was eperiencing after Chris died. This time, I am in a team of friends that I love and trust and who have the same intention and interests as me. Because I have now walked about 80kms over the mountains and can look forward to the next climb, I am also confident that I can do this route. I am also free of all of the things that were a source of stress for me 2 years ago and so the mental wanderings that I notice are more creative now than they were 2 years ago.
Our young friend Ian told us last night that this kind of walking is where you really get the feeling of spirit or God, as you push your limits and find an inner strength that carries you along through the most wonderful scenery you can imagine.
Sea views across the cliffs, rolling hills with the sounds of the bells tied to the cows and sheep and the wonderful weather that we have had, make each day such a gift.
And the wine is cheap and very good, the company along the way, always friendly and caring and the places we find are interesting, historic and unique.
Maggee (resting on the beach in Deba)