Markina to Gernika (30kms) Sept 2, 2010

Well, we found all of the long routes today and without even trying. We walked the first 12kms up the asphalt road to save Kirsten some hill climbing. We were warned that the hills from Markina were very steep and not necessary if you walked up the highway for about 5 kms. This turned out to be 12 kms for us which was fine as the smaller road was lovely up through the pine forests and not much traffic. Today we walked so many hills, I lost count. It is quite spectacular to walk in the forests, often climbing up pathways that are beds of pine needles and so the scent is intoxicating. We were directed along a variety of pathways, sometimes they are tractor routes, other times narrow trails through the woods. For awhile this morning we walked along a small stream for quite a long ways. It felt like a meditation experience to be in the woods with the animals´ bells sounding in the distance and the stream nearby.
We were exhausted by the time we arrived in Gernika, having followed the yellow arrows which took us up and up and around the mountain before coming down into the town. We waited with other pilgrims for the albeque to open at 4 pm and were shocked and annoyed to find that is a place that charged pilgrims a bargain price of E20 for a bed. The bonus is that the bed has sheets, but we are still in a small room with 6 others and the shower/toilet ratio is 2 to every 18 pilgrims. It feels like a real rip off! There is a place somewhere in the town in a big building where there are mats on the floor and the lodging is free. Quite frankly we were all so tired by the time we got into this place, I just could not imagine walking another 3 kms to check out the free space - so here we are in clean white sheets and an expensive night.
We are meeting very interesting people and having great conversations. Some of these pilgrims are very serious hikers, one having walked from her home in Switzerland, another from Paris and the Swiss woman walking alone, is planning to walk back again to a total of about 4 months of travel. So many people become addicted to this kind of walking and just keep on coming back for the experience of the walk and the community of international friends that is generated.
Tomorrow we will have shorte day of about 22 kms. We have covered over 125kms as of today and are getting in the swing of it now. The hills are something!! and we are actually walking over the Pyrenees, up and down all day long. But the scenery and the environments are fantastic. You can only see these things by walking and you can only meet people like this on such a pilgrimage.
I am finding this to be a much more relaxing experience than the pilgrimage that I did 2 years ago, mostly because I am confident of how to do it every day and also that I am so free of the stress that I was dealing with at that time. It is a special experience to just walk and absorb the environment, watch for the views and notice the small things along the way that are there to observe.
We are planning to take a bus right through Bilboa the day after tomorrow, not wanting to mix the experience of being a pilgrim with being a tourist and the walk through the city is tough with the industrial areas to pass.
More tomorrow
Maggee

Deba to Markina (23kms) September 1, 2010

Wow what a day! we left early this morning, Alvina and I. Kirsten was planning to take the bus to our destination, which she did, but made the mistake of getting off at a town about one hour farther so she had to walk back which was not a bad thing for her to test out her ankle. It was an uphill climb for us a lot of the way. We are thankful that we walk at the same pace and most of the time the incline is at a degree of ascent that is comfortable to walk in our own pace. It was incredible, the beauty of the walk today, actually through the Pyrenees, over about 3 inclines and then a very steep downward walk for about 3 kms at the end.
We passed through isolated farms, with the symphony of the donkeys, cows, sheep and the roosters either their own unique sounds or the large bells tied around their necks.
We could look over vistas that were incredible for the height and the distance across the mountains. We saw the sea only in the beginning of the day and then were in the middle of the mountainous interior. We walked through forest of pine trees, eucalyptus and cedars which created an exquisite odor and a wonderful sound with the wind whistiling through the high branches. It was heavenly.
We are loving the experience of being in Spain. Last night in Deba, we decided to splurge on a dinner and sat in the local square and watched the families and the young children out for their evening socialization. So many people and quite a vibe of activity. It was actually lovely! It was also nice to have a hot meal.
We are in Markina at the moment and planning to walk to Gernika tomorrow which is about 25 kms away. It will not be so tough as today I think, but before that we will have our menu del dia at a local restaurant for E9 (including the wine) and then go to bed.
We are in an alberque that is below the residence of the sisters and it is warm and comfortable, with about 16 people in the room - hopefully no one snoring tonight.
We have decided that we like to get up at 0630 hours and then begin to walk eary around 0700 or so. It is so lovely to be in the mountains in the early morning.
It is still lovely weather for us - about 25C today and again warm this evening so it is wonderful not to worry about the weather effect on our ability to walk. I cannot imagine doing this tough journey with the wind and the rain that we read about in the earlier spring.
I think often about my cousin Neil who died in Feb and who I am doing this walk in memory of. He would just tell me to buckle down and use my Icelandic female energy to conquer the challenges and to enjoy the adventure of the travel experience. Walking is such a totally unique way to experience the country. It is interesting that this location is run by an African and there are very friendly people at the front desk area - all African - who have helped us to get on line today. (makes me think that Chris is at my back as well)
Well, the wine is waiting and the day is beginning to fade for me so I will sign off for now
Maggee