Gernika Accomodation

Just to follow up on the situation in Gernika. It is a very nice town and a wonderful place to visit. While we had a good place to stay, it was very expensive for the location. The other option we learned the following day from some Norwegian boys who did go off to the free accomodation in another part of town, was actually an open sports field with a partial roof over it. There were showers and toilets, but they spend the night on the artificial turf in the open air - no mats or anything provided. We leared the following day at another alberque that the associtation is trying to get a municipal albergue set up in Gernika, because some hostel business is making a killing from the poor pilgrims by charging 20E a night for not much more than what we pay 3 - 5 E for in the others which have volunteers supporting them.
M

Markina to Gernika (30kms) Sept 2, 2010

Well, we found all of the long routes today and without even trying. We walked the first 12kms up the asphalt road to save Kirsten some hill climbing. We were warned that the hills from Markina were very steep and not necessary if you walked up the highway for about 5 kms. This turned out to be 12 kms for us which was fine as the smaller road was lovely up through the pine forests and not much traffic. Today we walked so many hills, I lost count. It is quite spectacular to walk in the forests, often climbing up pathways that are beds of pine needles and so the scent is intoxicating. We were directed along a variety of pathways, sometimes they are tractor routes, other times narrow trails through the woods. For awhile this morning we walked along a small stream for quite a long ways. It felt like a meditation experience to be in the woods with the animals´ bells sounding in the distance and the stream nearby.
We were exhausted by the time we arrived in Gernika, having followed the yellow arrows which took us up and up and around the mountain before coming down into the town. We waited with other pilgrims for the albeque to open at 4 pm and were shocked and annoyed to find that is a place that charged pilgrims a bargain price of E20 for a bed. The bonus is that the bed has sheets, but we are still in a small room with 6 others and the shower/toilet ratio is 2 to every 18 pilgrims. It feels like a real rip off! There is a place somewhere in the town in a big building where there are mats on the floor and the lodging is free. Quite frankly we were all so tired by the time we got into this place, I just could not imagine walking another 3 kms to check out the free space - so here we are in clean white sheets and an expensive night.
We are meeting very interesting people and having great conversations. Some of these pilgrims are very serious hikers, one having walked from her home in Switzerland, another from Paris and the Swiss woman walking alone, is planning to walk back again to a total of about 4 months of travel. So many people become addicted to this kind of walking and just keep on coming back for the experience of the walk and the community of international friends that is generated.
Tomorrow we will have shorte day of about 22 kms. We have covered over 125kms as of today and are getting in the swing of it now. The hills are something!! and we are actually walking over the Pyrenees, up and down all day long. But the scenery and the environments are fantastic. You can only see these things by walking and you can only meet people like this on such a pilgrimage.
I am finding this to be a much more relaxing experience than the pilgrimage that I did 2 years ago, mostly because I am confident of how to do it every day and also that I am so free of the stress that I was dealing with at that time. It is a special experience to just walk and absorb the environment, watch for the views and notice the small things along the way that are there to observe.
We are planning to take a bus right through Bilboa the day after tomorrow, not wanting to mix the experience of being a pilgrim with being a tourist and the walk through the city is tough with the industrial areas to pass.
More tomorrow
Maggee

Deba to Markina (23kms) September 1, 2010

Wow what a day! we left early this morning, Alvina and I. Kirsten was planning to take the bus to our destination, which she did, but made the mistake of getting off at a town about one hour farther so she had to walk back which was not a bad thing for her to test out her ankle. It was an uphill climb for us a lot of the way. We are thankful that we walk at the same pace and most of the time the incline is at a degree of ascent that is comfortable to walk in our own pace. It was incredible, the beauty of the walk today, actually through the Pyrenees, over about 3 inclines and then a very steep downward walk for about 3 kms at the end.
We passed through isolated farms, with the symphony of the donkeys, cows, sheep and the roosters either their own unique sounds or the large bells tied around their necks.
We could look over vistas that were incredible for the height and the distance across the mountains. We saw the sea only in the beginning of the day and then were in the middle of the mountainous interior. We walked through forest of pine trees, eucalyptus and cedars which created an exquisite odor and a wonderful sound with the wind whistiling through the high branches. It was heavenly.
We are loving the experience of being in Spain. Last night in Deba, we decided to splurge on a dinner and sat in the local square and watched the families and the young children out for their evening socialization. So many people and quite a vibe of activity. It was actually lovely! It was also nice to have a hot meal.
We are in Markina at the moment and planning to walk to Gernika tomorrow which is about 25 kms away. It will not be so tough as today I think, but before that we will have our menu del dia at a local restaurant for E9 (including the wine) and then go to bed.
We are in an alberque that is below the residence of the sisters and it is warm and comfortable, with about 16 people in the room - hopefully no one snoring tonight.
We have decided that we like to get up at 0630 hours and then begin to walk eary around 0700 or so. It is so lovely to be in the mountains in the early morning.
It is still lovely weather for us - about 25C today and again warm this evening so it is wonderful not to worry about the weather effect on our ability to walk. I cannot imagine doing this tough journey with the wind and the rain that we read about in the earlier spring.
I think often about my cousin Neil who died in Feb and who I am doing this walk in memory of. He would just tell me to buckle down and use my Icelandic female energy to conquer the challenges and to enjoy the adventure of the travel experience. Walking is such a totally unique way to experience the country. It is interesting that this location is run by an African and there are very friendly people at the front desk area - all African - who have helped us to get on line today. (makes me think that Chris is at my back as well)
Well, the wine is waiting and the day is beginning to fade for me so I will sign off for now
Maggee

Zarautz to Deba (26kms ) August 30, 2010

Well now it is getting more serious. This is our third day of walking more than 20 kms and my legs are sure feeling the effort. I am so thankful that I can walk up these hills which really require some courage and stamina. Compared to this walk, the Camino Frances was like a stroll in the park!!. The CF required stamina and endurance to keep going each day. It was also a lot more crowded with pilgrims everywhere and lots of places to stay. The Camino El Norte requires a lot of physical strength and is much less populated, probably because of that. We see pilgrims along the way, but maybe a total of 10 during the day. The alberques have been less than half full up until Deba. Most of the people are men and most walk in a group. There have been only 2 or 3 women that we have met walking alone and the rest in groups of 3 or 4 men and women together. The guide I am using is so confusing, it is pretty useless. It has alternate routes and so much detail, that if you are off track,you could never get back on from these directions. Alvina has a French book that we refer to, but we are following the yellow arrows which have been very reliable so far.
The walk from Zarautz started along the sea wall all the way to Getaria. We watched the sun come up behind us and it was like the heavens were opening up a shower of gold through the clouds. The colors reflected on the sea and into the distant skies were marvelous. Shortly, we were heading up and up into the hills again. This day was incredible for the climbing. At one point I said to Alvina that if we should lose our way, the option is always going to be up and not down.
Well, smart as we are, we decided to take a diversion off the yellow arrows to save some climbing and some distance. Big mistake! We were pretty soon at a junction with no signs and realized that we had missed a turn somewhere. So of course, to go back meant a climb up the highest hill. We were soon on the right track, but my God what a lot of big hills. At one point, I don´t think even the sheep go that far up. It was so steep, we just had to laugh and try to breath our way to the top - nothing wrong with this old heart I concluded!
Then on a narrow path on the other side, Kirsten slipped and badly strained her ankle. Luckily, she was able to keep on walking until we came to a small parking lot, again at the top of a hill. This never happens to us, but along came not one, but two women who both spoke English and one then offered to drive us to the next town to save the last 1 km of walking. We actually were offered a lift 2 more times by strangers who could see we were in trouble. You are never alone on this Camino really and just when you think you are in big trouble, the Camino angels step in and you are rescued from danger.
We found our way to the alberque in Deba, again with help from another pilgrim who happened along and knew just where to go. This alberque required us to take 2 elevators up the side of the mountain. We calculated that it covered 15 stories which the people of the town would otherwise have to climb each day to go back and forth to their houses. We eventually got our beds and then a number of people, including a doctor who was a pilgrim helped to solve the problem of Kirsten´s ankle. It is strained and not broken and was terrible last night. But this morning, she is so much better and able to walk. So we are resting today which is a good thing for all of us and will stay in a wonderful pensionne here in Deba. Kirsten will take the bus tomorrow and Alvina and I will walk the 22kms to Markina. this is a long stretch with nothing along the way, so better for her not to risk getting into trouble there.
I have to say that the people you meet along the way are remarkable and it is what gives me hope for the core values and potential goodness that exist in each of us no matter where we are.
We had a picnic supper in the albergue in the evening. When you do this, there are inevitably others who come along to join in. Sometimes there is no common language and you just manage in a combination of French or Spannish and a lot of sign language. It is pretty amazing how much relatedness is generated through this. There were two wonderful young men we met last night, one has walked the Camino France 5 times and is walking the El Norte for the second time (averaging 35 kms each day). Another loves walking so much that he takes young people in France who are in trouble with the law on long walks like this, as part of their rehab to a better life. These young people travel with very little money and manage to complete their camino quite well with what small resources they have and the kindness of strangers.
The alberques along this route have been basic, but clean and adequate. Most of them open only at 4 pm which makes it silly to be up and leaving at 630 am as we have been doing. As well, all of the beds that I have seen have a sheet on them and sometimes a pillow case - which makes me feel somewhat relieved that they are taking care to reduce the incidence of bed bugs which I am watching for very carefully after my Camino Frances experience.
So today here we are being tourists, staying in a lovely pensionne and having a day of rest. This is probably a good idea as the walks each day have been quite strenuous and my legs sometimes ache at night with the effect of the climbing. All I can think about as I walk now, is how strong I will be at the end.
I am also aware that this is a different mental and spiritual journey for me. Last time, I was scared of the challenge and of being on my own and searching for relief from the intense grief that I was eperiencing after Chris died. This time, I am in a team of friends that I love and trust and who have the same intention and interests as me. Because I have now walked about 80kms over the mountains and can look forward to the next climb, I am also confident that I can do this route. I am also free of all of the things that were a source of stress for me 2 years ago and so the mental wanderings that I notice are more creative now than they were 2 years ago.
Our young friend Ian told us last night that this kind of walking is where you really get the feeling of spirit or God, as you push your limits and find an inner strength that carries you along through the most wonderful scenery you can imagine.
Sea views across the cliffs, rolling hills with the sounds of the bells tied to the cows and sheep and the wonderful weather that we have had, make each day such a gift.
And the wine is cheap and very good, the company along the way, always friendly and caring and the places we find are interesting, historic and unique.
Maggee (resting on the beach in Deba)

San Sebastien to Zarautz (22 kms) August 29

We were kept awake most of the night with the young people out celebrating something. Until 6 am, there were plenty of people outside the windows singing and shouting and having a great time.The alberque is in an old school and so very basic with 30 bunk beds in one room and the showers and bathrooms upstairs. Still it is cheap and only a donation so the costs are very low. I have been averaging about E15-20 per day for g
food and lodging which is pretty good I think.
The walk each day is very tough and always involves a very steep climb and then an equally steep descent. Sometimes there are 3 or 4 mountains to cross, but the scenery is wonderful. The sea is always in view and if not, then there are wonderful views of the rural countryside, which is beautiful rolling hills, with the cows and sheep grazing, bells ringing and the smell of the sea mixed with the fields and the barn yards of course. It is quiet in the hills and gives one lots of time for reflection.
My back pack feels like my friend now - I guess I am getting used to it. I emptied it out completely and got rid of everything that I really did not need when we were in Irun. This included all kinds of very light weight small stuff of course, like some lotion and a pair of flip flops, but somehow it makes a difference to be carrying only what I really want to have on board.
San Sebastien was a wonderful old town but filled with tourists. Wonderful long beaches in the centre of the city crowded with people. Those who were not on the beach were wandering around the old town, so it was not a really great place to be as a pilgrim. The walk to Zarautz was good, but we arrived into another teeming tourist area, which was loaded with people on holiday. Because the weather is so good and it is Sunday, there are even more people around here. We have had great days for walking and the heat of the afternoon has not been so bad, maybe cooler higher up.
Maggee

Irun to San Sebastien 24kms

What a day! While I knew that this would be a climb, the reality of climbing was something else. There was a point earlier today that I wondered how anyone could possible do this in the rain as it would be a complete mud slide. However, we pressed on with the temp around 18 to 20C with overcast skies which made it a lot easier than the previous days of 35C or so. Walking high above the sea with the vistas being so incredible has been a wonderful experience. I had forgotten what it was like to walk in the silence of the wind and the earth with only the sounds of the bells on the animals to keep you company. We are enjoying the wonderful smells and sights along the coast. There are few women along this trek and a lot of men - plenty on bicycles even on the very high and tough paths and some guys running along. Must be the locals keeping fit!! I would not want to do this walk alone.
We arrived over the hills and into a small village beside the ocean on an inlet and took a ferry across to the other side where we sat and had lunch. It was such a wonderful experience. We have had the experience over and over again of the Spannish people offering help to us even when we do not ask for it. It is such a warm and welcoming place to walk. You could only see Spain like this if you were walking.
The trek today was a very tough climb and most of it was up - to the total of 24-26 kms depending on the book we choose. We had a long walk through San Sebastien and at the end, nearly gave up on finding the alberque. As happens on the Camino, just when we were about to get into a cab and head to the next town, a young man approached, fluent in French, and pointed the way to the albergue which was about a 3 minute walk from where we were. Once there, we were welcomed by a lovely pair of hospitaleros and were showered and settled in and drinking wine at a local bar in no time at all.
We are planning to try to walk about 22 kms each day depending on the climb, but if today was any indication, and if the weather holds up as it has, we should be OK for this. However, my legs are literally Scccreeeming with aches by the end of this day of walking 9 hours!! so we will have to take it as it comes and hope that our feet hold up.
We are so lucky to be walking together. We are miles ahead of where we were when we stared the Camino France solo two years ago. We know the ropes, have a plan and know what to expect and how to do this, so it is like starting the beginning as we were at the end of the first Camino.
The sounds, the smells and the feeling of walking, except this time high in the hills, brings one closer to God and the very special way in which you can appreciate silence, soul and the splendour of the universe around one.
We read a blessing each morning provided by our Camino Sister Linda, which situates us just where we need to be - walking with heart and soul fully engaged in the experience of just being, listening and observing what there is to appreciate about life and being fully alive.
Off to my glass of wine!

MAggee

Hendeye Aug 26 - 27

After a 6 hour train ride we have arrived in Hendeye here in the south of France on the border to Spain. Every pilgrim's nightmare happened to Kirsten when her back pack did not arrive on the flight from Copenhagen. We are promised that it will come this morning and so are ready to walk to Irun which is only a short distance away. We will stay there tonight ane then try our luck walking to san Sebastien tomorrow. It is about 24 kms and so with the heat (36c) we will start early and see how it goes.
We are decidely nervous about this trek after all of the horror stories that we read from the spring walkers and are determined to just do our best and enjoy the adventure.
there are not a lot of pilrgims visible around here. It is high tourist season on the coast so it is very crowded and accomodation hard to come by. we are committed to not being in a "bed panic"ech day and will trust that we zill figure it out as we go along.
Hendeye is a very beautiful town and it is very different being on the sea coast. Wonderful sun sets and a whole different smell in the air. The mountains are all around us - a real reminder of what lies ahead;
My back pack is too heavy and I am not sure what to take out so will just see how it goes in the next few days.
Short walk today and hopefully into the albergue in Irun this evening.
Maggee